Deep in Central America, there is a place called San Juan de
Oriente. Like many small towns, it has a preschool, an elementary
school, a middle school and a high school, each sufficient for its
citizens. But there is no university. The town has a bar and pool hall
popular with local residents. It has a beautiful church of pure white,
built in the colonial style in 1612 by Gervasio Gallegos de Galacia and
Juan de Bracamonte y Peñaranda. The town claims John the
Baptist as its patron saint, and celebrates him annually.
Geographically,
San Juan de Oriente is distinct because it is situated on the shore of a
volcanic, saltwater lagoon - a crater lake. The town is nearly two
hours from the nearest big city, and it relies on that city for
electricity. So, not surprisingly, there are blackouts from time to
time. Water access comes from a plant servicing several municipalities,
so they all take turns with service; as a result, San Juan de Oriente
gets running water every other day. They have a new health clinic, and
ample cellphone service. Such is life in this small, Central American
town.
What truly distinguishes San Juan de Oriente is its thriving
population of artisans, who have been specialists in ceramics for
centuries. Though their production techniques are more updated - potters
today typically use a foot-powered wheel instead of hand coiling clay -
these artisans still make their pieces by hand. Further, most
contemporary potters learned their craft and the specific details of the
art from their parents and grandparents.
The process is
painstaking, in that their clay is essentially "raw" and must be picked
clean of twigs, roots and rocks. It is softened and pounded over days of
preparation, and then thrown on the wheel, after which it is burnished
and smoothed by hand with smooth stones until all surface imperfections
are removed.
Metal oxides are often used to color the clay
surface, but they also use a black slip (liquid clay), which they
prepare via an elaborate straining process, especially for coloring the
pieces. Additional paints are used to apply beautiful designs, many of
which are consistent with pre-Columbian motifs. Drying time varies
according to season.
The artisans maintain a deep reverence for a
particular technique dating back 2,500 years or more; known as "inciso,"
the method amounts to a relief style carving that removes only the
smoothed, painted surface of the clay, exposing the rough surface just
beneath. The result is a highly artful, often geometric effect that
outlines or enhances the painted design.
Finally, the piece is
fired in an extended, low-heat process, with gradual increases in
temperature, until the final firing time is reached. The kiln is left to
cool, and only then is the finished piece removed and shined by hand.
It's a small industry, but it sustains whole families from these
regions.
Online you can find companies that are proud to represent
and promote the unique, collectible, and truly beautiful work of these
artisans. In fact, each piece is signed by its creator. Your purchase
supports a certified fair trade effort, and ensures continued prosperity
for the families of artisans honoring the traditions of centuries of
craftsmanship.
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